2020 Kumeu River, Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu 3x150cl

Vinous 95

Possibly the most complete Hunting Hill Chardonnay I’ve tasted in youth, the 2020 provides a harmonious, melt-in-your-mouth impression. It has breadth and concentration but retains a sense of elegance on the midpalate before finishing with precision and length. Yes, there’s a little bit of flint character too, but then Hunting Hill is known to be reductive; give it time. Like Forrest Gump, it runs through a finish line and keeps on going effortlessly. There’s no box of chocolates here, though; it’s all white nectarine, citrus, white flowers and o touch of smoked nuts. [Rebecca Gibb MW, 08/04/2021]

Anticipated maturity: 2023-2035

JancisRobinson.com 17+

Really nervy nose. Truly burgundian, if one is allowed to say this. Great fruit and great tension. Just the job and amazingly vibrant and persistent on the finish. You could drink this already but it will clearly last really well – though winemaker Michael Brajkovich is consistently cautious with his suggested drinking windows; ‘will improve with bottle age for four to six years’. A hint of Puligny here. [09/06/2021]

Anticipated maturity: 2021-2028

Wine Enthusiast 96

This vintage of 2020, like the others in Kumeu’s single vineyard stable, is a top-notch bottling with tension, depth and length. It deftly balances juicy citrus and pineapple fruit with floral, ginger and saline notes along a line of tingly acidity and chalky texture. It’s a complete and approachable wine now but also has the capacity to age until 2030 or longer. [05/01/2022]